A description by Captain J.E. Alexander of his visit in 1829 to the Russian naval base Kronstadt

Thanks to the account of travellers it becomes possible to get an impression of other countries in - sometimes- the past. Despite the personal coloured impression of the author, the information, which becomes available is sometimes not longer to be seen or found in archives. So, second-hand information can be really valuable. On this weblog I have used quite a lot of books, most of them digitized by Google, and added if possible information from my research in archives. When the author thought that his readers already knew the background, it will be not always clear to what he or she is referring to. If possible I added that information also.

Captain J.E. Alexander visited in 1829 Russia. It's a period in which the Mediterranean area was quite restless; as was the South American area. The Greeks were fighting for their independence from the Ottoman Empire. A combined French-British-Russian fleet destroyed a combined Egyptian-Turkish fleet at Navarino. The Ottoman Empire self was dealing with problems because satellite states like Egypt wanted to become independence. In England it seems to be some fear for the Russian (naval) strength as for instance shown in Alexander's account. (1) His first visit was to Cronstadt, a place where other authors also have been, for instance in the Napoleonic era, when Russia was more or less an ally of England, having the same enemy namely France. (2) Alexander referred to the same problem as other authors about the duration of life of the Russian warships and still using St. Petersburg as main yard despite the existing bar and the necessary use of camels.

P. 28: "It was not long before we saw the lighthouse of Cronstadt, and passing numerous sails crowding towards the port, we anchored off the war-harbour: a guard ship, with the white flag and blue cross of St. George at the mizen-peak, was outside of us, and three line-of-battle ships lay inside the mole. This was a busy day for the custom-house officers, as it was the first this season that vessels had come in. Since three o'clock in the morning one hundred had arrived: we therefore expected to be let off with a slight inspection of our baggage. But we mere mistaken… "

p. 29: "I landed to inspect the harbour and fortifications of Cronstadt. In landing, the granite mole with its wooden parapet, constructed by the late distinguished Admiral Greig, is the first striking object: we passed enormous ninety-six pound carronades, and then guns of lesser calibre. Looking over the parapet down the gulf, we saw the pilebatteries in the water, and the islands which were fortified at the time of the destruction of the Danish fleet at Copenhagen. Ïn 1807 the British navy destroyed the Danish fleet lying off Copenhagen, although several ships were captured and incorporated in the British Royal Navy.

p. 30: But there were but few ships of war, owing to the absence of the Baltic fleet in the Mediterranean. Formerly, the Russian sailors used to copy the manner of ours in their swaggering gait, and short and gruff reply, and now they must dress and look like soldiers. Opinions are divided as to the utility of making sailors do duty as soldiers for one half of the year; and naval men generally say that their accuracy cannot be increased thereby; but when one reflects that the Baltic and Black Sea fleets are unable to move out

p. 31: of harbour for so many months, it is seen that some employment must be found for the men during that time; and the sailors, thus drilled, have proved themselves repeatedly most efficient on ashore, and at no time more so than in 1812 and at the siege of Varna. When they act as marines or on shore, the full dress of the sailors of the guard equipage is a chako with an eagle and anchor-plate, and a white tuft; the other equipages have a small leather chako, broader at the bottom than the top, with two crossed anchors, and the number of equipages upon it; both the guard-equipage and the others wear green military jackets and black shoulder belts; the officers have both cocked-hats and chakos, with an embroidered anchor on the collar. The Baltic fleet at present consists of thirty equipages, of one thousand men each; three of these are the guard equipage, the model equipage, and the equipage of instruction. Each equipage is intended to man a line-of-battle ship, a frigate, and a sloop or brig. The ships are built of Cazan oak, but they do not last long. The stone-docks are excellent; but they still persevere in building their ships of war at Petersburg, and bringing them over a nine-feet bar on camels; consequently many of them are

p. 32: hogged. The principal objects for a stranger to visit at Cronstadt, besides the mole, fortifications, three harbours, and docks, are the store-houses, the hospital, and the marine barracks, which are in high order. The late Emperor paid little attention to the fleet; but Nicolas takes the most lively interest in it; superintends the building of his vessels, attends the launches, and constantly visits the naval storehouses, punishing with severity when he discovers deficiencies. The Russians call themselves the first military power, but acknowledge of course our superiority at sea: however, the present Emperor seems determined to rival us afloat also. A Russian fleet at anchor would be a worthy opponent to our brave spirits

Whose march is o'er the mountains wave,

Whose home is on the deep.

But in a running fight the English would outmanoeuvre them, especially in rough weather. If the Baltic and Black Sea fleets had secured the free passage of the Bosphorus, by that means they would have a great deal of useful practice, which as present is very limited. We passed the enormous camels for transporting vessels over the bar. Camels were originally used by the Venetians, as were also building

p. 34: sheds. The camel resembles a large cradle, which opens to receive the ship: the water is then pumped out, and the camel and its burden slowly rise and glide majestically down the stream. It is a fine sight when a first-rate is floated over the bar on one of these immense machines".

Just like J.T. James wrote in 1812, the camels were not an invention of Venice of Hamburg, but of the Dutch! Camels were since the 17th century common use in the Netherlands, for instance for East Indiamen and Dutch warships to reach or depart Amsterdam due to the shallowness at Pampus. They were invented by Meeuwis Meindertsz Bakker who succeeded in April 1690 with success transporting the Prinses Maria over Pampus into the Zuiderzee. The 1st charter 3-decker Prinses Maria, also called Prinses van Oranje belonged to the admiralty Amsterdam, built by Simon Jans Lis at naval yard at Amsterdam 1683, sold to be broken up for parts 1708, dimensions 170 x 43 x 16, 92 guns, 500 men. "An Englishman lately submitted a plan to the Emperor for removing this bar. He wanted, as a recompense, permission to levy a tax on all vessels which passed up for a certain number of years: but though his scheme was considered feasible, yet the remuneration which he sought was considered too extravagant."

Source

J.E. Alexander. Travels to the seat of war in the East, through Russia and the Crimea in 1829. With sketches of the Imperial fleet and army, personal adventures, and characteristic anecdotes. Vol. I. London, 1830. Digitized by Google

Notes

1. "The Russian naval base at Revel, Estonia around 1835" and "The Russian navy in progress in 1836".

2. "The Russian naval base Cronstadt in 1812 according to a description of J.T. James" and "Russian naval shipbuilding at Cherson and Nikolaef in 1812 according to a letter of Reginald Heber”.