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Saturday, 3 December 2011

A description by Mary Holderness of her visit to the Russian naval base Nicholaef around 1820

Mary Holderness made a long voyage towards the Crimea before returning to England, where she published her book. During two months she lived in Nicolayeff and made some notes dealing with this place. We get now the opportunity to see through the eyes of a woman what the naval base was, although not spectacular different from other accounts. Between 1816-1820 she lived at Karagoss.

P. 94: "I could not fail to remark the many improvements of this town under the administration of the present Commander-in-Chief, Vice- Admiral Greig, a man so high in estimation, as to be admired even by those who envy him. The office of Admiralty is held here, though the rendezvous of the Russian fleet is at Sevastopol. In the dock-yard we saw completed and launched a 74 gun ship, and several others of different descriptions were on the stocks. The fleet generally goes out about the month

p. 95: May, for a cruize of three months, the Admiral taking the command for a part, if not the whole of the time. An observatory is just established here; and there is a public school for the children of sailors and soldiers; and many public edifices for the different offices of government. Besides a large garden attached to the Admiral's house, of his own planting, there is a public promenade or gardens in the town; and the pleasure grounds at his country-house, three or four versts distant, are materially enlarged and improved. These are the resort of all the principal inhabitants, and always open. An extensive vineyard too has been lately planted, which looks very healthy and flourishing', and from its grapes the first wine has been made at Nicolayeff, which I tasted at the Admiral's table. It may be imagined what an improvement the quantity of trees now planted is to the appearance of the town, where before scarcely one was to be seen. The population is reckoned at from seven to eight thousand stationary residents; of sailors,

p. 96: soldiers, shipwrights, &c. about five thousand. According to the census of 1819, there were 1400 houses, but their number is daily increasing. Their method of building cottages is both cheap and expeditious, and very warm and comfortable when well finished. The corner posts are of wood, proportioned to the size of the house to be built, with light rafters and beams, and spars at regular distances for the walls, over which is laid, both within and without, a covering of reeds, and this is drawn and plastered; the roof is of reeds also. When the plastering is dry they are white-washed, and the window-frames and doors painted, which renders them the neatest cottages I have seen. In this manner the sheep-sheds, barns, and outhouses of the pretty estates that skirt the banks of the Ingul, are erected ; and it has been estimated, that a very good farm-house of five rooms,, with kitchen and out-buildings as above-mentioned, may be built for 1001 or 2000 rubles. The wood for such purposes is bought in the timber-yards, ready cut to any dimensions required: it is reasonable and plentiful, being

p. 97: brought here for Government in great quantities : its quality is soft, and not very durable. Both at Odessa and in the Crimea, it is considerably dearer than at Nicolayeff. The reeds are also bought very cheap: they grow up the Bog and Ingul in great quantities, and are of an amazing size."

Source
Mary Holderness. New Russia. Journey from Riga to the Crimea, by way of Kiev; with some account of the colonization, and the manners and customs of the colonists of New Russia. To which are added, notes relating to the Crim Tatars. London, 1823.